TURKEY - CAPPADOCIA & THE
TURQUOISE COAST ITINERARY:
DAY 1 Istanbul - Kayseri flight, Cappadocia; The Gulludere and
Kizilçukur Valleys; 3-5 miles, moderate
Welcome to Turkey! If you chose to join the Istanbul city
tour, you have had a brief introduction to the treasures that
abound in this magnificent country. For others, your exploration
begins in the magical region of Cappadocia. We travel as a group
from Istanbul to Kayseri. Upon our arrival, we transfer directly
to our hotel, which serves as an ideal base for the next three
days of exploration. Ürgüp is a timeless village, and our hotel
is situated on a spectacular hillside, surrounded by ancient
Christian cave churches and magnificent views of the typical
Cappadocian landscape. The property consists of two former cave
houses and was restored with an aim to blend in with the natural
and cultural environment; the ambiance is idyllic.
Following lunch, we travel approximately 20 minutes by minibus
to our walk’s starting point along well-maintained trails
through the spectacular valleys of Gulludere (Rose Valley) and
Kizilçukur (Red Valley), and on to Çavusin Village. Here, some
may opt for a Turkish coffee as a quick pick-me-up and time to
further explore the village. Our longer walking option continues
through apricot orchards and along vineyards. En route we visit
a pair of Byzantine churches (Beyaz Kilise and Uzumlu Kilise) of
great historic interest, but a well-kept secret due to their
remoteness. We observe a truly lunar landscape this afternoon,
with hundreds of “fairy-chimneys” and tufa towers. We continue
our walk to Pasabag, formerly known as the “Monks Valley,” where
we meet our bus and reunite for a short drive to Avanos. Here we
visit the cave workshop of a local potter and witness a hands-on
demonstration of his craft while sipping local wine.
Following an orientation meeting, we indulge in authentic
Turkish fare for our welcome dinner. Ürgüp Evi Cave Hotel,
Ürgüp
DAY 2 - Kavak-Bahçeli; Derinkuyu Underground City and
Ihlara Valley; 5 ½ miles, easy to moderate
After a leisurely breakfast, we drive 30 minutes to start our
village-to-village walk through typical Cappadocia dwellings and
countryside. We begin in the village of Kavak, then move on to
Bahçeli. It is an easy 2 ½-mile walk to Bahçeli, where we are
free to explore the village and the valley below. Today’s walks
offer a great cultural perspective into modern Turkey’s rural
people. We have time to join the extraordinarily welcoming
locals for cross-cultural conversation over tea in their homes.
Houses are made of stone or burrowed into the bedrock, adobe
style. One can often see apricots, tomatoes, or peppers drying
on the flat rooftops. Chickens, cats, livestock, and horse-drawn
carriages share the streets with the rare modern vehicle.
From here, we travel to the eight-story deep Derinkuyu
Underground City, one of 200 underground cities in Cappadocia,
hollowed out of the soft tufa rock. A veritable human ant farm,
these settlements were thought to have originally been used as
temporary refuges in times of danger by the Hittites in the 4th
century. By the 7th century, Christian communities were forced
to seek refuge in these cities for months at a time.
We continue on towards Belisirma and the Ihlara Valley, stopping
en route for lunch along the banks of the Melendiz River. The
drive to Belisirma Village takes us over rolling hills, often
broken by stands of poplars marking a water course, vast
farmlands of sunflowers, and the sweeping central Anatolian
plateau. Tucked away below the (11,000-ft) extinct volcano of
Mt. Hasan is the oasis of Ihlara Valley. This beautiful
streamlined canyon once proved an ideal location for monks’
secluded worship, as well as a defensible hideaway during times
of invasion. We explore the hidden, frescoed churches of this
early Byzantine monastic valley during a 3 ½-hour walk. There is
no major elevation gain or loss, and a well-defined trail marks
the entire route.
Ürgüp Evi Cave Hotel, Ürgüp
DAY 3 Pigeon and Kodarak Valleys; Göreme Outdoor Museum; 3 ½
miles, easy to moderate; additional 3 mile moderate option
Today’s walk takes us from our hotel through the Pigeon and
Kodarak Valleys to Göreme. Göreme is home to an open-air museum
that we have an opportunity to visit. It is here that a new
unity in Christian thought was introduced in the 4th century and
remains part of a doctrine in use today. Lunch is taken in
traditional style at an ancient Greek house, clad in historic
murals, in the village of Sinassos. This village was
predominantly inhabited by Greeks until the mass population
exchanges of the 1920s. After lunch, you may remain in Göreme
for further exploration or join an educational visit to the main
carpet-weaving cooperative of Cappadocia. This is a
government-sponsored project where we watch young Turkish women
weaving silk and wool carpets. We learn how silk and wool are
extracted from cocoons and sheep respectively, made into thread,
spun, vegetable-dyed, and then woven.
Late afternoon offers an optional walk to explore the scenic
“Love Valley,” an area renowned for some of the finest
geological formations in Cappadocia. We return to the hotel with
time to relax before dinner. After dinner, we may have an
opportunity to view an extraordinary performance by the Whirling
Dervishes. Ürgüp Evi Cave Hotel, Ürgüp
DAY 4 - Transfer to Antalya and Turkey’s Gold Coast
Following breakfast, we depart Cappadocia for a day-long
transfer by coach to Antalya and the Mediterranean Coast. After
approximately 3 hours of driving, we arrive in Konya where we
stop to visit the Museum of Mevlana, the Sufi Whirling Dervish
Center, and some of the 12th-century Seljuk monuments. Konya was
the capital of the first Turkish Empire in Asia Minor under the
Seljuk Turks. From Konya our drive becomes especially scenic as
we cross the Taurus Mountains reaching an elevation of 6,500 ft.
Along the way we view conifer forests of pine and cedar and may
spot the black goat-hair tents of nomads and their flocks. We
break in the mountains at Tinaztepe for lunch and to breathe the
fresh alpine air.
After lunch we begin the beautiful descent to the coast. Our
route takes us past Aspendos, home to a magnificent 2nd-century
Roman theater, perhaps the best preserved and most complete
Roman theater in existence. With 15,000 seats, it is a true
marvel of classical architecture. Time permitting, we stop for a
brief visit of the stunning marble city of Perge, or Parha as it
was referred to during the Hittite period. First captured by
Alexander, then dominated by other groups, most of the remains
are from the Roman period. After checking in to our hotel in the
old town of Antalya (with a history dating back to 150 BC),
there may be time to stroll the old town on your own before we
reunite for dinner. Marina Residence & Restaurant, Antalya
DAY 5 - Antalya Museum; Gulluk Dag National Park; 3 ½ miles,
moderate along moderate to challenging terrain (750 ft elevation
gain and loss); Olympos National Park; 1 ½ miles (350 ft
elevation gain and loss), easy to moderate along rock steps cut
into the trail
Today unfolds like a page from Greek mythology. We begin the day
with a short walk around Antalya and a visit to its
award-winning museum. We then drive approximately 45 minutes to
the most spectacular site in the Antalya region—Termessos. This
Pisidian mountain stronghold is located in the Gulluk Dag
National Park, and our walk involves a fairly constant climb
along a well-established, but rocky, trail to reach the ancient
theater, where we are transported to ancient times. We continue
on to the upper necropolis and the site of dozens of sarcophagi.
Upon our descent, we are treated to a fine luncheon at nearby
Kep-Tur.
In the afternoon, we drive 1½ hours southwest along a beautiful
stretch of Mediterranean coastline, following the base of Mt.
Olympos, to arrive at the village of Cirali. This is ancient
Olympos of Lycia, and better known for the mythological eternal
fires of the Chimaera. We walk about one hour to these eternal
flames and witness the awesome power of this unique phenomenon.
In The Illiad, which Homer wrote in 700 BC, Termessos and
Chimaera are mentioned as the places where the Greek hero
Bellerophon, riding the legendary white-winged horse Pegasus,
accomplishes the tasks of killing the monsterly Chimaera and
teaching the war-like Pisidians peace in order to stay alive.
The nearby coastal township of Finike is where our beautiful
gulet awaits us. We board the yacht and, time permitting, sail
to a secluded cove for our first of many star-lit tranquil
nights. Gulet
DAY 6 - Visit to the ancient city of Myra; walk from Gökkaya
to Kaleköy; 2 miles, easy
We sail about 2 hours to Myra’s ancient harbor Andriace, for a 2
½-hour exploration of Myra. This ancient city is known for its
amazing 500 BC rock-cut cliff tombs and a well-preserved 100 BC
Roman theater, but more so for being the primary residence of
St. Nicholas, who later became known as Father Christmas, or
Santa Claus, because of the miracles he performed. We visit the
church where he was the bishop, then return to our gulet for
lunch in a secluded cove in nearby Kekova Sound. Here we have
ample time to swim in the crystal clear waters, windsurf,
snorkel, or explore a marine cave.
After a few hours of relaxation we start a 2-hour walk over a
flat isthmus from Skyrock Bay (Gökkaya Bay and Harbor) to
ancient Simena (today known as Kaleköy). Our walk takes us
through age-old olive and carob groves to the timeless village
of Simena, which can be reached only by foot or sea. A crusader
castle crowns the hilltop and the flanks of the walls are
littered with dozens of 1st-century Roman sarcophagi, or stone
coffins often adorned with ornate carvings. Our yacht drops
anchor for the night below the castle, as we watch the sunset
from its upper bastion. Dinner this evening is enjoyed aboard
the boat and prepared by our private chef. Typical dishes
include an array of salads and chicken or beef kabobs.
Gulet
DAY 7 - Sailing from Kaleköy to Okçuoldugu; optional 3 miles,
moderate walk and/or snorkeling explorations
After a leisurely breakfast and a morning swim, we sail
approximately 1½ hours to Aperlea. Those who wish to walk have
the option to do so from Sicak Bay, along a moderate trail. Here
we anchor over the sunken ruins of a 4th-century BC Lycian site,
the attractive remains of which can be observed both on land and
under water by the use of snorkel and mask. Submarine
foundations of harbor streets, pillars, terracotta walls, and
thousands of pieces of pottery shards can be seen at depths of
5-8 ft.
Lunch will be at the nearby cove of Okçuoldugu, just northeast
of Cape Uluburun, the site of the earliest known shipwreck. A
team of nautical archaeologists have excavated a bronze-age
Phoenician vessel here with funding from the National Geographic
Society. After a 1-hour sail from Uluburun, we arrive at the
quaint coastal town of Kas. Tonight, you are on your own to
wander around this attractive town, once known for its sponge
divers, but now famous for its deep blue seas, charming market
street, and Greek Theater. This evening’s meal is on your own
and may be taken alfresco at one of the delicious local
restaurants. Gulet
DAY 8 - Cruise on board our Gulet; walk and explore Kalkan
and Xanthos; 1 mile, moderate
Today we sail 2 ½ hours to the whitewashed and bougainvillaea-clad
coastal village of Kalkan. After an hour-long stroll through the
village, we travel 40 minutes by minibus to the mountain village
of Bezirgan. Here we are treated to a traditional lunch with a
local family. After exploring this timeless farming community,
we drive 35 minutes to the ruins of Xanthos, once the legendary
capital of Lycia.
Late afternoon finds us at the vast and remote 8-mile sand beach
of Patara, the birthplace of St. Nicholas, where a Roman theater
remains half-buried beneath the fine sands of the beach.
Following a swim, we drive 15 minutes to the start of a trail
for a 45-minute descent on foot to our boat, anchored in the
turquoise waters of Firnazlar Cove. En route we pass through the
arches of a magnificent relic, a secret Roman aqueduct. The
trail is narrow and rocky, but punctuated by silvery olive trees
and a natural herb garden of thyme, oregano, sage, and rosemary.
We may have time for a final swim before we rendezvous with our
gulet, and retire to a satisfying dinner on board. Gulet
DAY 9 - Cruise on board our Gulet to Ölüdeniz, Soguk Su
Cove, and Gemiler Island; walk to Kayaköy; 4 miles, challenging
We sail for about 4 hours west around the seven capes to
Ölüdeniz Lagoon. This pristine beach lined with pines is popular
due to its proximity to Fethiye and is known as the “jewel of
the Mediterranean.” After this brief respite we begin a
spectacular 4 ½-hour walk to the astonishing modern Greek
ghost-town of Kayaköy. We walk along a trail partially shaded by
emerald green Aleppo pine forests and over headlands with
magnificent views of the lace-like seascapes below to reach
Kayaköy. The inhabitants of this 600-home ghost city were also
subjects of the mass population exchanges of the 1920s. Today’s
unsettled state of the city offers moving flashbacks of a past
human tragedy.
We have lunch in a nearby taverna, and conclude the walk at
Soguk Su wilderness cove where we swim and rejoin our gulet. Our
overnight anchorage is in the protected waters of Gemiler
Island. Today’s walk involves mixed terrain—rocky and steep
switchbacks alternate with flat sections. Approximate elevation
gain and loss is 900 ft each way. Gulet
DAY 10 - Cruise to Gemiler Island and Fethiye Bay; walk to
ancient Lydea; 4 miles, moderate
Gemiler Island is the location of mysterious Byzantine ruins.
Following an early breakfast and morning swim, we explore the
ruins of this 6th-century Greek-Orthodox monastic society while
traversing the island during a very rewarding 1½-hour walk.
After a short rest on the beach or a quick swim, we then sail 2½
hours to Fethiye. Here we visit the colorful farmers’ market, as
well as the spectacular 5th-century BC Tomb of Amyntas, a Lycian
temple-tomb in the Ionic style, carved from the sheer cliff
face. Lunch is served on board the gulet, as we attempt to raise
the sails and use only windpower for a 1½-hour journey into the
sapphire blue waters of Fethiye Bay, and across to Aga Limani
Cove.
From here we have the opportunity to walk 2½ hours at dusk over
sublime terrain reminiscent of biblical times, to the ancient
site of Lydea. A very remote location, there are no roads or
villages nearby. Goat bells from a nearby flock, and the whistle
of a lonesome shepherd, make this walk complete with a sense of
discovery and an appreciation for the beautiful remote
countryside. We conclude our walk at the “Sunken Baths of
Cleopatra” where we meet our gulet and enjoy a final night’s
dinner and tranquility on board our sailboat. Gulet
DAY 11 - Istanbul - Farewell
Following an early morning breakfast and perhaps a final
swim, we sail 1½ hours to Göçek Village. Here we disembark and
bid farewell to our crew and transfer (35 minutes) to Dalaman
Airport for our flight to Istanbul. Upon arrival in Istanbul,
you may make connections to your next destination.
Note: The above is a 2008 itinerary.
The 2009 itinerary will be available soon - please call for
details
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