An Introduction to the Canal du Midi
The Abbey at Fontfroide was founded in 1145 on the site of a previous Benedictine abbey. It became one of the richest and most powerful abbeys in the Midi. It was also the site of the murder of a monk, Pierre de Castelnau, the papal legate in January 1508, which provided the pretext for Pope Innocent III to declare the Albigensian Crusade (the Cathar Wars). One of it abbots, became Pope Benedict XII in 1334. The abbey fell into decay after the Plague of 1348, and later operated by noblemen who were given the title of Abbots without actually being monks. Deciding that the simple monastic surroundings did not suit their lifestyle, the abbey was embellished with luxuries such as fireplaces, marble pillars and elaborate staircases. The abbey was bought by a local family in the early part of the 20th century who spent years restoring it. Although the abbey does not entirely resemble the austere abbey it once was, the church itself has the typically simple clean lines of Cistercian abbeys and is entered through a delightful 13th century cloister.

Béziers is a center of the wine trade in southern France and the birthplace of Pierre-Paul Riquet, creator of the Canal du Midi. The town prospered with the Canal's 17th-century construction. Nearby, Riquet's amazing cascade of eight locks at Fonsérannes is one of the Canal's engineering highlights. The locks are almost 1,000 feet long and carry boats across a vertical distance of 70 feet. Beside Béziers' cathedral is its Musée des Beaux-Arts, containing works by medieval Flemish and German masters.

The Canal du Midi and its northern extension, the Canal Latéral à la Garonne, were conceived to link France's Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts and thus avoid the long and sometimes risky journey around Spain. Together, they are the country's longest navigable artificial waterway and are called the "Canal des Deux Mers."

Commissioned by Louis XIV in the 17th century, the Canal du Midi extends from the Bassin de Thau near Agde to Toulouse and has remained virtually unchanged for more than 300 years. The care taken by its creator, Pierre-Paul Riquet, to design the Canal in harmony with its surroundings turned a technical achievement into a work of art. The resulting locks, aqueducts, bridges, and tunnels were considered to be the "marvel of Europe" when completed in 1694 and are still considered a prodigious engineering feat -- so much so that the Canal du Midi was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

The strategic site of Carcassonne has been fortified for more than 2,000 years. The old town, called La Cité, is in an extraordinary state of preservation and looks much as it did at the end of the Middle Ages. La Cité is surrounded by a double circuit of walls and towers. The inner ramparts were first built by the Visigoths in the 6th century, and the outer ramparts were begun by Louis IX. The Château Comtal (Castle of the Counts) is inside the double walls, but further fortified in its own right. There are only two entrances to the town: Porte Narbonnaise and Porte d'Aude. Carcassonne's Basilique St-Nazaire is part Romanesque and part Gothic. Its 13th-century choir has lovely stained glass and statuary. The River Aude flows between La Cité, which lies above its right bank, and the Ville Basse (or lower town). Unique in Europe, Carcassonne is an extraordinary architectural monument.

The Minervois region of southern France takes its name from the ancient Roman city of Minerve, which was dedicated to the goddess of wisdom. It is known for its exquisitely beautiful countryside and its "petits châteaux" wines. The wines produced here have been appreciated throughout history and were traditionally served at the tables of the kings of France. During the Middle Ages, a Crusade against a group of persecuted Christians known as the Cathars ravaged the Minervois region. In a succession of campaigns over a period of forty years, the Cathar communities in southern France were destroyed with great cruelty. In 1210, almost two hundred Cathars chose to be burned at the stake in the French town of Minerve rather than renounce their faith.

The ancient Mediterranean city of Narbonne was a Roman senatorial colony and became a commercial center when an artificial port was created by diverting an arm of the River Aude. A severe storm in the 14th century returned the Aude to its original bed, however; and Narbonne declined as its man-made bay silted up. The 17th-century construction of the Canal du Midi and the advent of railway travel in the 19th century helped the city to grow again, and Narbonne now vies with Béziers as a center of the wine trade in southern France.

Narbonne's Cathédrale St-Just was begun in 1272 but never completed because construction of its nave would have meant breaching the town's ramparts. The choir vaulting, which reaches a height of almost 135 feet, rivals that of cathedrals in northern France. The cathedral's treasury in the Chapelle de l'Annonciade houses a wonderful 15th-century Flemish tapestry that is woven in silk and gold thread.

Overlooking the Languedoc plain, l'Oppidum d'Ensérune is an ancient pre-Roman hilltop settlement that was occupied without interruption from the 6th century BC to the 1st century AD. It was once a way station along the famous Roman road, the Via Domitia. Excavations begun in 1915 have uncovered thousands of objects and revealed stone building techniques similar to those used in ancient Greece. It is considered to be one of the most important archaeological sites in Europe, and there is now a museum here to display its artifacts.

SUNDAY
Meet at 4:00 pm at the rail station in Béziers and transfer to 'Alouette,' moored in town. A champagne welcome awaits followed by your first dinner on board.
MONDAY
Enjoy a morning visit to Pézenas, famous for its antique shopping. Then, cruise to Capestang for an excursion to Oppidum d'Enserune, one of the region's most important archaeological sites.

TUESDAY
This morning, take in the beauty of the Canal du Midi, with its impressive locks and aqueducts, scarcely changed since their completion more than 300 years ago. After lunch, visit l'Abbaye de Fontfroide, a Cistercian monastery founded in the 11th century. Return to 'Alouette' by way of Château Auris for a wine tasting.

WEDNESDAY
Experience the wonderful covered market in Narbonne, a lively Mediterranean city and important center of wine production. During the afternoon cruise, there is an opportunity to taste awarding-winning olive oil at l'Oulibo, the local olive press.

THURSDAY
After breakfast, visit Minerve, an old village on a limestone cliff that dominates the vineyards below. Then, stop at Peyriac-Minervois for a wine tasting. After lunch on board 'Alouette,' cruise to Trèbes.

FRIDAY
Visit Carcassonne, Europe's largest medieval fortress town, to admire the intricate fortifications and enjoy the fine views from its battlements. The Cathedral here is remarkable for its stained glass windows, fine statues and elegant transepts. Back on board the barge this evening, enjoy a memorable farewell dinner.

SATURDAY
After breakfast, transfer to the rail station in Carcassonne where your tour ends.

Note: This route is run in reverse on alternate weeks.

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