DAY 1
Athens; 2-2½ hours, easy walking tour of the city, some hill climbs
You meet as a group at the Herodian Hotel in Athens for introductions followed by a walk through the city, which familiarizes you with the location of some of the sites and museums that you may wish to visit upon our return.
A short climb up to the Hill of Philopappus brings you to the imposing Roman period funeral monument and extensive views of Athens and Pireus. You then descend to the hill of the Pnyx, the area used in Classical Athens as the meeting place for the democratic assembly. You enter the historical Plaka area close to the Thiseion temple, dating back to the 5th century BC, then meander past the ancient Agora with the impressively restored Stoa of Attalus, Hadrian’s Library, and the picturesque Tower of the Winds. The route back to the hotel goes up over the Areopagus, or Hill of Mars, directly below the Acropolis. Here, in 54 AD Saint Paul preached his Sermon on an unknown God, as recorded in the Acts of the Apostles. Finally, you pass the Roman period Odeion of Herodes Atticus, which is still used as a summer venue for open-air concerts and theatrical performances.
This evening you dine at one of the finest tavernas in the popular Plaka district, where you can sample local wines and traditional dishes such as stuffed vine leaves, lamb and vegetable dishes, moussaka and baklava.
Herodion Hotel, Athens
DAY 2
Sotirianika to Kambos via the Koskarakas gorge; 4 miles, easy to moderate, along dirt trails and stone mule paths (including a short steep ascent from the gorge)
Leaving Athens early in the morning for the southern coast, the first stop along the way is the spectacular Corinth Canal. A bit later, lunch is scheduled at a pleasant harbor taverna in the port of Kalamata before arriving in the Outer Mani. In the afternoon a walk takes you through the village of Sotirianika and follows the dirt trail through olive groves to the deserted monastery of Agios Nikolaos.
You continue along a mule path and impressive stone bridge over the Koskarakas Gorge and then on a dirt road to Kambos. Here, in the church of Agia Theodoroi, are some excellently preserved 18th-century frescoes painted by a local artist, which depict an unusual combination of biblical, historical, and pagan influences. The afternoon comes to a close with a visit to a Mycenean beehive tomb, which is reputedly the burial place of Machaon, the son of Asclepios, the god of healing.
Late in the afternoon you arrive in Kardamili, a charming fishing village located on the shores of the Messinian Gulf, with views of the dramatic Taygetus range behind. You receive a warm welcome at The Esperides Apartments, a friendly, family-owned property with shady gardens. This evening you sit down to a delicious dinner of local food in one of the village tavernas.
Esperides Apartments, Kardamili
DAY 3
Pigi - Platsa - Agios Nikolaos - Stoupa; 4-7 miles, mainly easy dirt road walking
After breakfast you transfer a short distance south to the outskirts of the village of Pigi, which takes its name from the spring that provides fresh drinking water. From here, the old kalderimi (mule path) leads to the larger village of Platsa, where you can catch a glimpse of the leisurely morning life of the central square. A scenic track brings you down to the sea at Platti Ammo, a quiet sandy beach fringed by tamarisk trees, where there is a chance to swim or to relax on the beach before lunch.
The afternoon walk follows a quiet coastal road, which passes through the quaint fishing village of Agios Nikolaos (one of hundreds of similarly named seaside villages in Greece). It then follows the shoreline to the small resort of Stoupa, where you have time to enjoy a drink at a beach café or browse at the grocery store for local products such as olive oil and honey before returning to Kardamili. There may be time to explore the village or perhaps fit in another swim before dinner.
Esperides Apartments, Kardamili
DAY 4
Lefktro - Proastio - Petrovouini - Kardamili; 5 miles, easy with one steep climb. Afternoon option; 2-4 miles, moderate
This morning’s walk starts just a short drive from Kardamili, in Lefktro on the outskirts of Stoupa. You admire the colorful gardens of the hillside settlement before climbing quite steeply, out of the village, your exertions rewarded by magnificent views over Stoupa Bay. The trail then flattens out and continues through pleasant olive groves, affording glimpses of the high Tagyetus peaks in the distance.
Crossing the Fonias Gorge via a beautiful stone bridge, you soon arrive in Proastio, a largely unspoilt village built of local sandstone. You meander through the picturesque streets and briefly visit a modern olive oil factory before unpacking a picnic lunch under the welcome shade of a pine tree.
After lunch you may wish to return directly to Kardamili to relax at the hotel or on the beach. Or you may opt for a pleasant afternoon walk, which first goes to the ruined monastery of Agios Georgis, concealed behind high walls on a cypress-clad hilltop, and then continues through fields and olive groves to the village of Petrovouni, directly above Kardamili. From here, you can walk or get a ride back to the hotel, or, time and weather permitting, take the more circuitous route down to old Kardamili via the tiny village of Agia Sofia.
Esperides Apartments, Kardamili
DAY 5
Areopolis and the sea caves of Pirgos Dirou; 3 miles, mainly easy dirt trail with a 2-mile afternoon option.
This morning you depart for Areopolis, passing from the more fertile exo (outer) Mani to the barren mesa (inner) Mani. This is a historical route, as several of the villages along the way are mentioned by Homer and, in more recent history, many played an important role in the struggle for liberation from the Turks. From Areopolis you descend toward the sea, visiting the interior of a traditional tower house along the way .
Once down at Diros Bay you tour the impressive Glyfada sea caves. These caves, open to the public since 1963, are rated amongst the best of their kind in the world. Accompanied only by the splash of the boatman’s paddle and the dripping of water into the underground river, you glide through chambers containing curtains of delicate stalactites and serried ranks of stalagmites.
After a picnic lunch on the beach you also have a chance to visit the small, but fascinating, museum of artifacts from the Neolithic period that were recovered from the adjoining Alepotrypa (Foxhole) cave system.
This afternoon you return to Areopolis and explore the picturesque historical section of the village before descending to the nearby Limeni Village Hotel via a scenic dirt road, which offers stunning vistas over the Bay of Itylo.
Limeni Village, Areopolis
DAY 6
Cape Tenero; 5 miles, mostly moderate, with challenging options
Today’s first highlight is a visit to the partially restored tower village of Vathia, without a doubt the most photographed sight in the region, and still a powerful reminder of the local inhabitants’ chronic struggle to survive in this desperately poor land. A little further down the coast, beyond the bay of Marmari, you start the day’s walk overlooking a dramatic seascape just a couple of miles from the most southerly point in Europe. Today’s more challenging option is to hike to the lighthouse via Mianes, an isolated village high above the sea, still without electricity, telephone, or running water, while the lower route will take you past the settlement of Kokinoghia and along the coast.
Both groups meet up at the lighthouse, which stands proudly on the rocky promontory at Cape Tenero. Here you enjoy a rustic picnic lunch before returning to explore the remains of the ancient settlement, which once played an important role in the history of this area. You end the day with a refreshing swim or a cold beverage, then return to the hotel where there is time to relax before dinner.
Limeni Village, Areopolis
DAY 7
Agios Ioannis - Anavriti - Faneromeni Monastery - Mystras; 3-7 miles, moderate
After breakfast you depart Areopolis for Gythion. According to mythology, the town was founded by Heracles and Apollo and was an important port in ancient times. Today, it serves as a commercial center for surrounding villages. You can stretch your legs during a brief stop before heading north, bound for the eastern foothills of Tagyetus. From above the village of Agios Ioannis, you begin a walk along an ancient mule path to Anavriti (a 1½-hour gradual ascent). This once populous village is blessed with dozens of different fruit and nut trees and endless fresh running water. After a lunch in the village taverna you continue to the monastery of Faneromeni, occupied by one lone monk.
After a brief rest in the monastery garden you can either board the bus back to the hotel or choose one of two pleasant walks. The first follows an old trail below the abandoned Sagouni Monastery, then becomes steeper as you make your way down to the village of Parori where you are met by the bus. The other walk follows a scenic track that ends up right at the door of your hotel in the quiet village of “new” Mystras.
This evening you enjoy another authentic Greek dinner.
Hotel Byzantion, Mystras
DAY 8
Visit to the ruined, medieval town of Mystras and short gorge walk; 4 miles, moderate, return to Athens
After breakfast the walk leaves right from the hotel. This route offers an ideal vantage point from which to view the entire ruined settlement and to gain an excellent impression of the size of this once glorious and important Byzantine city. You climb up through the city on the original cobbled streets, visiting several of the most important churches along the way, which miraculously are still adorned with beautifully executed frescoes, some dating back to the 13th century.
You exit the city via the upper gate, and this final walk proceeds down through a tree-clad gorge below the castle back to Mystras. Here you lunch al fresco in a garden taverna before beginning the four-hour drive back to Athens, which includes a brief stop in Ancient Corinth.
The venue for the final dinner is a taverna in the heart of the bustling Saturday night Plaka, and it is here that you say good-bye to your traveling companions.
Herodion Hotel, Athens
DAY 9
Departure
Departure is on your own anytime today. This is an ideal day to take advantage of the many attractions at your doorstep in Athens—visiting the Acropolis, a museum, or shopping in the Plaka.
Note: The above is a 2008 itinerary. The 2009 itinerary will be available soon - please call for details
Itinerary Changes
Please bear in mind that this is a typical itinerary, and the actual walks and sites may vary due to season, special events, or weather. We reserve the right to alter the itinerary since tour arrangements are made up to a year in advance, and unforeseen circumstances that mandate change may arise. Itinerary changes are made to improve the tour and your experience.
A Word about Walking Mileage
Though we have outlined the average length of the walks with shorter and longer options, it is very important to keep in mind that we are not walking on flat, paved surfaces. Most of the trails in Greece are on uneven paths, often mule paths and gorges that may have unstable rocks, pebbles, and tree stumps strewn along the way. It is important that you prepare for this trip by walking on uneven paths. You will likely find that the pace you may usually keep at home is not realistic on this tour. Please don’t be discouraged about doing less mileage than you had hoped. Your experience is guaranteed to be richer in other ways.